It had been a while since I had visited the Veneto region and its Soave wines, so dear to Commodore Henning Hammargren, but more importantly, it had been a while since I had tasted old vintages of Soave.
La Strada del Vino Soave offered me an unmissable opportunity during the Soave Seven 2023 preview.
Now in its sixth edition, this event explores the longevity of white wines from the Verona province.
After tasting the Vecchie Vigne 2011 from Tenuta Sant’Antonio, I wondered: How much would a bottle of this wine fetch if it were from Burgundy or the Loire?
I say this not to make foolish comparisons with the prestigious French terroirs, but precisely because a wine like this cannot be considered subordinate to anyone; rather, it can and should confidently compete in the same league as its more celebrated rivals.
Of course, it is not the only one; the same can be said for the Foscarino Soave Classico 2016 by Inama, the Fonte Soave Classico 2016 by Canoso, the Soave La Froscà 2016 by Gini, the Cimalta Corte Adami 2015, the Soave Colli Scaligeri 2015 by Sandro De Bruno, or the Villa Canestrari Superiore Riserva 2012, just to name a few.
The Future of Soave White Wines and Their Potential for Global Recognition
I understand that white wines face challenges due to various well-known reasons. These include market conditions and the reluctance of restaurateurs to offer older vintages.
Additionally, there is a persistent misconception among consumers that wine should be consumed within the year following the harvest; otherwise, it is no longer good. There are also other similar beliefs that contribute to these challenges.
The hope for the near future, thanks also to the efforts of La Strada del Vino, is that Soave, particularly from highly suitable areas, will undergo a period of aging before being released on the market. Depending on the winery’s plan, the length of this aging period could vary. Ultimately, Soave is expected to regain its deserved position among the world’s great white wines, thanks to a careful and strategic market policy.
La Strada del Vino Soave
The Strada del Vino Soave was established in 199. Now it includes about 100 members, including wineries, institutions and associations, agritourisms, restaurants, hotels, olive oil mills, and local specialty product businesses.
The Strada del Vino Soave has always been active in coordinating the many members that are part of an ideal route of approximately 50 km. Along the route you can admire the landscape, visit wineries, taste wine, sample local dishes, and experience the hospitality of the people.
Tourists can choose among a wide range of options within the thirteen municipalities, that are part of the Route, scattered across four beautiful valleys that, for their different attractions, definitely deserve a visit. Starting from Verona, you will find in order: Val di Mezzane, Val d’Illasi, Val Tramigna, and Val d’Alpone. For further information, you can visit the website www.stradadelvinosoave.com
Traditional products: wine
Soave Superiore DOCG
The Soave Superiore, produced in the hills of the Soave region, received Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin certification in 2002.
What contributes to the high quality of this wine is the optimal combination of the following aspects:
- cultivation area
- controlled yield in the field
- proper storage before bottling.
The Soave Superiore, classified as Soave Superiore Classico when produced in the so-called classic zone, is a wine released to the market only after a minimum bottle aging period of three months to preserve its maturity and complexity.
Soave DOC
This area was the first DOC recognized in Italy in 1936. In recent years it has achieved two DOCG (Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) certifications, the highest quality certifications in oenology: Recioto di Soave DOCG and Soave Superiore DOCG.
The oldest production zone, located in the hilly areas of the municipalities of Monteforte d’Alpone and Soave, was delimited as early as 1931. It coincides with the one of Soave “classico,” while the Colli Scaligeri subzone stretches from San Martino Buon Albergo to Roncà, covering the ridges of Val di Mezzane, Val d’Illasi, Val Tramigna, and Val d’Alpone. In this region, the Garganega grape achieves its highest quality expression, to the extent that the area is closely identified with this variety. This creates a unique and irreplaceable bond between the grape and its terroir.
The DOC includes the wines Soave, Soave Classico, Soave Spumante, and Soave Colli Scaligeri. Soave is derived from the skillful blending of Garganega grapes – in a percentage of over 70% – with Trebbiano di Soave grapes for a maximum of 30%.
Recioto di Soave DOCG
Recioto di Soave, produced in the hills of the Soave area, was the first wine from Veneto to receive the controlled and guaranteed designation of origin certification in 1998. The term “Recioto” comes from the dialect word “recia,” meaning “ear” in Italian.
This name refers to the typical shape of the upper part of the Garganega grape cluster, which is richer in sugars and more exposed to the sun, and is selected for making the wine. The best clusters are dried on racks for 4 to 6 months before pressing. Following this, the fermentation process is slow and lengthy.
Both Recioto di Soave and Recioto di Soave Spumante wines are included in the DOCG classification. Recioto di Soave has a bright golden yellow color, ranging from more or less intense; the aroma is intense and fruity with hints of vanilla. The taste is sweet or semi-sweet, velvety and harmonious, full-bodied, and may include a perception of wood.
Other Products
Veneto Extra Virgin Olive Oil “Valpolicella” DOP
The main characteristic of this product is the traditional cold pressing of healthy, hand-picked fruits. These fruits are selected and harvested directly from the plant using combs or rakes.
Only a few hours elapse between harvesting and milling, preventing any external alterations. Milling is performed with traditional extraction systems, such as presses or continuous systems, to preserve the organoleptic quality of the olives.
The Veneto “Valpolicella” DOP extra virgin olive oil, made from Grignano or Favarol cultivars, has a yellow color with slight green hues. It features a light fruity aroma and a taste that is fruity with a slight bitterness and a musky aftertaste. This oil is produced in the area along the right bank of the Adige River, covering the Valpolicella wine lands and extending into the Soave wine production area.
The Verdone Nano Pea of Colognola ai Colli (seasonal product)
The Verdone Nano is a variety of Pisum sativum, the legume whose tender seeds are enclosed in a pod (also called a shell). This annual and climbing plant has found an ideal environment for its cultivation in Colognola (VR).
The soil, exposure to the sun, and fields located at an altitude below 200 meters provide the ideal conditions for nutrition, temperature, and humidity. This results in a product of exceptional quality, characterized by a sweet and delicate flavor, harvested by May.
How to cook the Verdone Nano? Given its place of origin, the perfect marriage is certainly with another excellent Veronese Nano, the Vialone rice. “Risi e bisi” (rice and peas) is a flagship dish of Venetian cuisine, which even the Doges wanted on their table.
Mora di Cazzano (seasonal product)
The recent history of the Mora di Cazzano is the same as that of the entire cherry cultivation in the Verona area. After centuries of mixed and family farming, intensive plantations began only after 1920 and expanded mainly between 1930 and 1940 and in the post-war period. A strong impetus came in the 1970s from the legislation for the D.O.C. of wines, which forced the separation of vineyards and cherry orchards.
Prosciutto crudo di Soave
Prosciutto crudo di Soave means the Masconale family. Prosciuttificio Soave is a historic company in the Soave area, committed for four generations to producing high-quality cured meats. The ham curing sector has the potential to produce 25,000 to 30,000 pieces per year in various types.
The hams come from heavy national pigs, tattooed and guaranteed, weighing between 12 and 15 kilos. All the breeding farms of origin are located in Emilia, Lombardy, and Veneto. In addition to raw hams, the company produces speck, culatello, and lard.
Sopressa Veronese
The sopressa has ancient roots, as evidenced by numerous historical and artistic references that have emerged over the centuries.
It is a high-quality sausage that represents the local rural culture and gastronomic traditions of its production area. Since the 1950s, various events and village festivals have been dedicated to this product.
Monte Veronese DOP Cheese
Typical of the dairy tradition of the mountainous area of the Province of Verona, particularly from the fertile pastures of Lessinia, this cheese, made from cow’s milk, comes in two varieties: whole milk and partially skimmed milk, known as “d’allevo.” The whole milk version is a table cheese with a semi-cooked paste, produced exclusively from whole cow’s milk, obtained from one or two consecutive milkings. Its flavor is delicate and pleasant, with notes of lactic ferments and cream. Aging varies from 25 to 65 days.
The “d’allevo” variety is a table cheese or grating cheese with a semi-cooked paste, made exclusively from partially skimmed cow’s milk, always sourced from one or two consecutive milkings.
Grappa di Recioto di Soave
Grappa di Recioto di Soave is one of the products most closely linked to the region and the technique of drying grapes that has been passed down in the Soave area for centuries. This Grappa is produced by distilling the pomace of the Garganega and Trebbiano grape varieties. The pomace is collected from the most renowned and established farms in the Soave area, where the grapes are left to dry for about three to four months in well-ventilated rooms until they reach a high sugar content, which is then used to produce the Recioto di Soave Docg.