Philippe Austruy, an entrepreneur passionate about art, architecture, and wines, purchased Tenuta Casenuove, which spans an area of 120 hectares, in 2015. The location is enchanting, and Austruy, with utmost respect for the genius loci, initiated extensive restoration work to preserve the original character of the place and its surroundings. He revitalized the ancient landscapes composed of dry stone walls and terraces.
The underlying idea of the entire project is restoration, with the intent to conserve, restore, and also transform the architectural landscape, respecting the existing while considering the future needs of those who will use the estate. Hence, alongside the architectural element, a modern and functional winery was constructed. After all, we are in Panzano in Chianti, in the heart of Chianti Classico, one of the world’s most renowned terroirs for wine production.
To achieve his goals, Philippe Austruy surrounds himself with the best specialists in the field. From the very beginning, Alessandro Fonseca, who manages the estate, has been by his side, accompanied by the young winemaker Cosimo Casini. Cosimo works in tandem with the enologist Maria Sole Zoli, for whose abilities he has a sort of reverence. Just look at his eyes when he talks about Maria Sole Zoli’s talent, and you’ll understand.
Despite the extensive work required, the renovation restores Casenuove to its former glory in just five years, transforming the estate into an art gallery, where works of art are incorporated into the greater masterpiece.
The restoration of the vineyards
The restoration of the vineyards began in 2016. One and a half hectares of Cabernet Franc, one and a half hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon, and two hectares of Sangiovese were replanted, making the latter the primary variety in terms of cultivated area on the estate. The second phase of restructuring focused even more on the pedological study of soils and viticultural potential, seeking out clones and indigenous grape varieties to highlight the typical products of the Panzano and Chianti Classico area. For this reason, in 2018, varieties such as Canaiolo, Colorino, and Ciliegiolo, historically recognized as complementary components of Chianti Classico, were integrated into Casenuove.
The guidance of Alessandro Fonseca, the enthusiasm of the team of young oenologists and their collaborators, combined with the foresight of Philippe Austruy, created a mix that allowed Tenuta Casenuove to undertake significant projects. For example, the transition to organic production, led by cellar manager and sustainable production expert Maria Sole Zoli, which took place in 2018, the same year Tenuta Casenuove joined the Union of Viticulturists of Panzano, the first organic wine district in Italy.
“Le Terrazze” project
Another remarkable work, born under the aegis of innovation, is the “Le Terrazze” project. Conceived by Cosimo Casini, this project involves the restoration of semi-abandoned terraces descending the hill towards the Pesa River. Following the principles of this genuine “art” (included in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list since 2018), native grape varieties have been planted and cultivated using the traditional Lamolese bush training method.
The tasted wines
At Tenuta Casenuove, the watchword is uncompromising quality, meaning meticulous attention to detail at every stage of production. Harvesting is done exclusively by hand. Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes undergo a two-stage selection process before they reach the vats. Only the most perfect and ripe grapes are allowed to ferment in concrete vats. Fermentation and maceration are assisted by gentle pump-overs and punch-downs. Afterward, the wine is stored in concrete or steel tanks. It awaits transfer to the cellar for aging, which lasts from ten to twenty months depending on its final destination.
Ziik
Starting with Ziik, a “Metodo Martinotti” sparkling wine made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. Crafted with logic, this sparkling wine has a certain personality and is never banal—in a word, intriguing.
Chianti Classico 2021
The Chianti Classico 2021, made from 95% Sangiovese grapes with a 5% blend of Canaiolo, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a Chianti Classico with character. It features a highly detailed bouquet of floral and fruity notes. The taste is enveloping and long-lasting, with a woody note that is still too prominent but, overall, it is a wine of great elegance that will continue to bring much satisfaction in the years to come.
Chianti Classico Riserva 2019
The Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 is made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. The year was climatically average until early July. At that point, a sudden spike in temperatures disrupted the balance and caused stress to the plants. Despite this, the winery received the grapes in perfect health. The result was an unexpectedly high-quality wine that shines in the glass. The nose features delicate floral notes of violet, wild berries, and balsamic hints. On the palate, the wine is broad with dense tannins and finishes long and fresh.
Chianti Classico Gran selezione 2018
Chianti Classico Gran selezione 2018, made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. During the 2018 growing season, cool and very humid spring weather increased the risk of fungal diseases for the vines. The summer brought average conditions, with frequent thunderstorms continuing into the early stages of ripening, which was the first half of September. This raised concerns about the health of the estate’s grapes. However, a significant change occurred at the end of September when very cool and dry northeast winds arrived. These winds proved to be a game-changer for the qualitative evolution of the grapes. The harvest wrapped up on schedule for Panzano in Chianti, and we picked the last Sangiovese grapes by mid-October.
In perfect harmony with Cosimo Casini, we can confirm that the “Gran Selezione” 2018 is the ultimate expression of the character of Panzano’s Sangiovese, marked by the distinctive style of Casenuove. The bouquet is very elegant and highly detailed, with notes of violet and wild berries, and enriched with delicate spices and tobacco. The palate is deep and well-balanced, with a consistent finish enhanced by a saline note and remarkable length.
IGT Toscana bianco Scoglio Nero 2019 ansonica grape
Tenuta Isola nel Giglio is Philippe Austruy’s estate on the Island of Giglio. The core of the entire project is Ansonica, an ancient native grape variety of the island. The vintage was regular, with weather conditions aligning with historical climatic averages. The harvest took place in the first decade of September. After they hand-pick the grapes, they destem them upon arrival at the winery. They then ferment the grapes without pressing and vinify them in temperature-controlled steel containers. The maceration continues throughout the alcoholic fermentation phase. Depending on the degree of ripeness, maceration can also extend into the subsequent aging phase on fine lees.
Part of the wine ages in second and third-use barriques. The remaining portion matures in clay containers. This process ensures the right level of micro-oxygenation necessary for developing the tannic structure extracted during maceration. The aging process lasts 30 months, with 18 of those spent in the bottle. The nose is decidedly complex with intense vegetal notes, especially chamomile, preserved fruit, and iodine hints. On the palate, it is vibrant and saline with a finish that is full-flavored and dry.
The Connection with Art
Art has always been the guiding thread of all Philippe Austruy’s winemaking projects, as he continuously seeks out locations with hidden heritage to bring new life to.
The collaboration with Galleria Continua aims to narrate a place in constant ferment. As a result, Casenuove is inaugurating “The Wine of Art” in Panzano. This new exhibition space combines a love for wine with a passion for art. It serves as both a wine tasting venue and an art gallery, offering views of the hills of Panzano.
This space naturally continues the story that the “Le Radici dell’Arte” project began. In 2020, the project inaugurated its first permanent installation. Pascale Marthine Tayou designed this installation and placed it in the heart of Tenuta Casenuove. The artist was impressed by the diverse locations and the passionate involvement of people in restoring the estate. To honor the ambitious project, he chose to make the men and women who bring Casenuove to life the subjects of his works. His aim was to highlight their energy and human character.
The “Geni di Casenuove” sculptures are placed in various locations around the estate. These crystal sculptures, adorned with different objects, capture the character of the figures they represent. By integrating these sculptures into the landscape, the artist highlights how people have shaped and tamed the land over the centuries.