The Rosso di Montalcino DOC serves as the “fallback” designation for the celebrated Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. Informally, “fallback” designations refer to DOC or IGT classifications, typically encompassing the same or a larger area as their more prestigious counterparts, that include wines which:
- Have been downgraded from the region’s more noble DOC or DOCG status.
- Are designed to represent a younger, more accessible version of the noble DOC or DOCG.
- Are intentionally produced without claiming the higher classification at the winemaker’s discretion.
This thorough explanation of the term “fallback” comes from italvinus.it. At first glance, words like downgrading, rejected, young, and immediate might suggest that wines under this classification are not of particularly high quality and could never aspire to the status of great wines—a privilege seemingly reserved for the region’s more aristocratic DOCG.
But this is far from true for Rosso di Montalcino. On the contrary, after attending the tasting event celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Rosso di Montalcino DOC—held during the Red Montalcino event—I was left with the distinct impression that producers in this exceptional terroir face a real challenge in promoting and positioning their product. The overall quality of Rosso di Montalcino is remarkably high, and more importantly, it has the potential for impressive longevity. In short, opening a bottle can be a truly exceptional experience. So, how does one reconcile this with Brunello?
Paradoxical? Perhaps. But consider, for example, the Rosso di Montalcino Poggio di Sotto 2009. Blind-tasted alongside monumental Brunellos, it would challenge even the most seasoned tasters, who might struggle to identify it as a Rosso di Montalcino.
One might say, “What a wonderful problem to have! Few terroirs in the world are so blessed.” The only real risk is miscommunicating Rosso di Montalcino’s identity. For example, I’m not entirely convinced by the idea of focusing its promotion on a specific target, namely younger consumers.
I think this would be a mistake. It would limit the wine’s horizons, keeping it in the shadow of Brunello.
Instead, Rosso di Montalcino is ready to shine on its own. It could serve as a Bordeaux-style “second vin.” A wine that delights enthusiasts—young and old alike—who seek to open and enjoy an excellent bottle. As we’ve noted, it’s also one that can achieve greatness.
Recalling the tasting from the 40th-anniversary celebration, standout examples like:
- Fattoria del Pino 2015
- Sesti 2016
- Banfi Poggio alle Mura 2016
- Poggio Antico 1993
Purchased upon release, these bottles are priced more affordably than their Brunello counterparts from the same producers. Yet, for those with patience, they can become true treasures.
Rosso di Montalcino is a wine of free will—a phrase coined by Barbara Di Fresco. She is a a journalist from RaiNews24 and moderator of the opening conference at the anniversary event which featured:
- Enzo Tiezzi, past president of the Brunello di Montalcino Consortium and the ‘godfather’ of Rosso;
- Andrea Costanti, one of the architects of the wine’s commercial success;
- Francesco Ripaccioli, producer and grandson of Primo Pacenti. He was the first president of the original Rosso Consortium before it merged into the unified consortium in the mid-1990s.
It’s called the wine of free will because you decide when to drink it—young, as soon as it hits the market, or after letting it rest in the cellar for a few years. The certainty is that, regardless of your choice, Rosso di Montalcino will never disappoint—an uncommon wine trait, as most would agree.
“If Rosso di Montalcino comes from a single vineyard or Cru, it inherently carries a more distinct identity. With less oxygen influencing its ageing process, the unique characteristics of its origins remain more vividly expressed. While traditionally considered the “second wine” compared to Brunello, Rosso di Montalcino arguably captures a clearer sense of place because the homogenizing effect of oxygen is less pronounced.” the words of Roberto Cipresso.
For those interested in understanding Rosso di Montalcino’s market impact, here’s an excerpt from the UIV Observatory report:
Rosso di Montalcino remains one of the few designations capable of driving growth in an internationally challenging market segment. It responds to a still strong demand for products with a clear identity, deeply tied to highly recognizable territories—territories that act as brands themselves—and for wines capable of conveying a contemporary image of their origins.
This is evident in the consistent rise in average prices, solid positioning in the most profitable market segments (Horeca), and expansion into higher value-added price ranges.
In 2023, average prices recorded significant increases: +10% in the domestic market, exceeding the national average, and +5% internationally.
Equally noteworthy—indicative of a healthy designation from a reputational perspective—is the trend in average selling prices. Over the past three years, the “basic” price range (up to €8 per bottle ex-cellar) has dropped from 80% to 52%, while higher ranges have grown: the €8–€10 range doubled to 35%, and the €10–€15 range rose to 5%.
The ultra-premium segment (above €15 per bottle) remains a niche, accounting for about 3% of sales. The 2023 trend confirms this “premiumization”: a sharp drop in the basic segment (-35%), and increases of 16% and 47% in the €8–€10 and €10–€15 ranges, respectively.
Until 2022, domestic sales dominated Rosso di Montalcino DOC, accounting for 55% of volume and value. However, 2023 saw a notable shift, with international sales rising to 47%.
Rosso di Montalcino is sold in over 90 countries. According to the Consortium’s Economic Observatory, about 40% of sales value comes from the United States, followed by Canada (14%), with the North American market representing 51% of total sales. Secondary markets are all European, led by Germany (6%), Sweden (5%), the UK (4%), and Norway (1%).
Except for Sweden, all major markets fall within the premium price range, exceeding €8 per bottle (ex-cellar).
In the first four months of this year, the UIV Observatory, based on SipSource data, reported a 4.5% increase in Rosso di Montalcino consumption in the US—an impressive result, considering the overall decline of 8% in Italian red wine sales in the same market.
https://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/it/1993/red-montalcino
