In the world of wine, it is often said that Italian winemakers struggle to collaborate effectively, with the so-called “particulare” of Guicciardinian memory—meaning the dominance of individual interests over collective ones—often prevailing. According to common belief, our French counterparts excel in this regard. While the idea of uniting people and ideas is a good starting point, it is not enough to create a cohesive team; a common thread is needed to forge genuine connections and overcome individualism in order to contribute meaningfully to a shared project.
This virtuous situation, though challenging to achieve, is fully realized when meeting the producers who make up the Association of Viticulturists San Donato in Poggio. There is no pretense or forced effort; conversations with them and tastings of their wines clearly reveal that the path taken by the Viticulturists of San Donato in Poggio is one of true harmony of thought, aimed at sincere and mutual growth.
The San Donato in Poggio Winegrowers’ Association was established in 2018 through the will and passion of a group of producers. Their ais is to enhance the identity of this region and spread its knowledge.
The blessing of this union was ultimately given by the Additional Geographic Units (UGA) project; indeed, starting from July 1, 2023, it is possible to include not only the symbol of the Black Rooster on the label but also the name of San Donato in Poggio, thus further defining the production area of Chianti Classico.
The UGA of Chianti Classico
The UGAs (Geographical Units of Appellation) represent a subdivision of the Chianti Classico production area into smaller, more homogeneous zones.
This division was implemented to enhance communication between wine and territory. It aims to increase quality in terms of identity and regionality, and to help consumers understand the origin of the grapes.
As a result, eleven areas within the Chianti Classico production zone have been identified and delineated. These areas are distinguishable based on specific criteria: enological recognition, historical significance, notoriety, and production volumes.
One such area is San Donato in Poggio. This region includes parts of the Florentine municipality of Barberino Tavarnelle, specifically its westernmost side, and Poggibonsi, which is within the province of Siena.
A Bit of History
The significance of San Donato in Poggio is underscored by the presence of an alternative road to the Roman one, which was already in use during the Etruscan era and connected Florence to Siena. This road seems to have been the origin of the village itself. It was a typical and ancient ridge road. Various historical accounts, including the existence of “cambiatori” (money changers), inns, shelters for pilgrims and the poor, and a hospital in the area of San Donato in Poggio, suggest that before the 14th century, the route to Siena, and therefore to Rome, favored the road of “Sanctus Donatus in Pocis” due to the shorter distance and the presence of a bridge, a structure quite rare at the time, located in Sambuca.
The Road of San Donato in Poggio
The Road of San Donato in Poggio likely lost its preeminent role when Florence reached the peak of its economic development. This growth led to a rerouting of the Via Francigena. It favors a path through Florence and prioritizing the San Casciano-Tavarnelle-Barberino route. This one was better connected to important centers such as Colle Val d’Elsa and San Gimignano.
The hills between the Pesa and Elsa rivers were already inhabited during the Etruscan era. This is evidenced by the place names, which can be linked to Etruscan linguistic layers:
- Olena
- Poci (later Poggio)
- Sicelle
- Ficaiola (later Filigare), which also gave rise to the names of some of the wineries in the UGA of San Donato in Poggio.
The Wines of UGA San Donato in Poggio
The area where the wineries of the San Donato in Poggio Winegrowers Association are located is well-defined and clearly demarcated from the rest of the Denomination. It is bordered to the east by the hills that rise up, reaching over 600 meters at the boundary with Castellina in Chianti to the south, forming an arc towards the southwest.
This “hilly embrace” encompasses a region where the Maestrale winds, arriving from the Tyrrhenian Sea through the natural corridor of Monte Serra to the northwest, between Pisa and Lucca, significantly influence the climate. Compared to the inland valleys of Chianti Classico, the winters are milder and the summers cooler and more breezy. Consequently, in spring, the vines typically bud slightly earlier, while ripening tends to be slower and harvests later. These distinctive characteristics produce wines of great finesse and elegance, with softer tannins and balanced acidity.
In the overall tasting of the Chianti Classico selection from the San Donato in Poggio Winemakers’ Association, which includes 17 Chianti Classico references—14 from the 2021 vintage, 2 from the 2020 vintage, and 1 from the 2019 vintage—besides the truly high overall quality, a notable common characteristic emerges. This is significant, given the regional recognizability of the UGA (Unità Geografica Aggiuntiva). The common trait observed is a sense of elegance, freshness, and often a saline note that concludes with a remarkably long finish.
The winegrowers who are members of the association
- Fattoria Montecchio
- Quercia al Poggio
- Poggio al Sole
- Isole e Olena
- Casa Sola
- Castello Di Monsanto
- Podere La Cappella
- Marchesi Antinori Badia a P
- Le Filigare
- Casa Emma
- Fattoria la Ripa Torcilacqua
- Il Poggiolino
- Fattoria Ormanni
- Le Masse
- Fattoria Cerbaia Cinciano
