Matilde Poggi experiments, studies, and tests to give voice to her territory. In each wine, she infuses her philosophy, her love, and her vision of “making wine.” Her focus is on rosé wines—often underrated, yet they carry an explosive personality, especially those from the Le Fraghe winery.
A vertical tasting of Chiaretto di Bardolino
A vertical tasting of Chiaretto di Bardolino is a great pleasure, and when the tasting becomes a double vertical, things get serious, I assure you.
Rosé wine, often seen as a summer drink and highly “Instagrammable” in recent years, has rarely been considered on par with white or red wines. In this regard, Matilde Poggi is a pioneer: she has always discussed a wine that is so debated and undervalued, considering it important enough to build a company around it and even create a double vertical tasting.
Hats off to Matilde Poggi!
Two wines: Ròdon Chiaretto di Bardolino, the fresher wine with steel fermentation, and Traccia di Rosa, aged in concrete.
Who is Matilde Poggi?
Born and raised surrounded by conversations about wine and watching her father produce it, she embarked on a similar journey herself. 1984 marks the beginning of her winemaking career, which today celebrates its 40th harvest.
Her winery is located in the heart of the Bardolino DOC, in Cavaion Veronese, an area embraced by Lake Garda, Monte Baldo, and the Valdadige.
The name of the company, “Le Fraghe,” has an uncertain origin but is believed to derive from the vineyard across from the winery. This vineyard is home to many wild strawberries, which is likely the source of the name.
From the beginning, Matilde felt free to explore and enhance her territory. She converted the entire estate to organic in 2009, avoiding trends to instead focus on maximizing the unique characteristics of the Bardolino DOC grape varieties.
Matilde and her entire company speak of “rosé wines” with heartfelt passion. What particularly impressed us? The company’s consistency: from its narrative about the region and sustainability to the bottle itself (a lightweight Burgundy-style bottle weighing 400 grams) with a screw cap. Matilde reveals little about herself, avoiding self-promotion, with all the attention placed on her wines, which speak for her.
Ròdon Chiaretto di Bardolino Dop
Ròdon is made from Corvina (80%) and Rondinella (20%), which are vinified separately. The must undergoes a low-temperature maceration lasting approximately 6-8 hours to ensure that the extracted color is as vibrant and intense as possible. The resulting must is then fermented in white, and after fermentation, the wine is placed in 50 HL steel tanks, where it remains on the fine lees until spring, before being bottled.
The desire to let the wine evolve optimally drives the choice of steel. Considering the type of wine and the region known for producing very delicate wines, the goal is to respect the wine’s essence. Therefore, they preferred steel first, followed by terracotta. The guiding principle for this wine is “respect.”
Bottled in clear glass bottles.
Chiaretto Bardolino Ròdon 2023 – Le Fraghe
Extremely expressive wine. The fruity aromas range from tropical fruits to peach and apricot. There’s a floral touch reminiscent of broom, rosehip, and lily of the valley. On the palate, it is exceptionally fresh and savory with excellent persistence. This is a wine that will provide great satisfaction and, in my opinion, will evolve beautifully. In its youth, it can be described as “crisp and lively.”
Chiaretto Bardolino Ròdon 2022 – Le Fraghe
The vintage was very warm, with temperatures well above average since June. Despite this, the aromas remain fresh but lean more towards spices. The wine is just beginning its tertiary phase. Initially, when first poured into the glass, it presented itself a bit closed, which is expected at this stage of development. It displays great freshness and depth.
Chiaretto Bardolino Ròdon 2020 – Le Fraghe
This wine was the “watershed” of the tasting. It marks the beginning of Chiaretto’s evolution. Characterized by freshness and salinity, it achieves a perfectly elegant balance. Unlike other wines in evolution, here the tertiary notes do not replace the youthful aromas but rather complement them, adding greater complexity and depth.
Chiaretto Bardolino Ròdon 2016 – Le Fraghe
We are accustomed to associating the color pink with Chiaretto Bardolino. In this glass, however, the pink hue leans towards orange, vibrant and captivating. Aromatic herb notes are present, yet it retains a freshness reminiscent of its youth. A wine that continues to surprise. Amazing!
Chiaretto Bardolino Ròdon 2016 – Le Fraghe
You know those wines that people say, “Keep it in the cellar; it will become a great wine”? This is the wine that deserves a place in the finest cellars. It offers aromas of dried wildflowers, bitter orange peel, and dried apricot. Initially a bit reserved, it has now fully opened up. This is the potential of Chiaretto Bardolino: 9 years of evolution and it still showcases a fresh, lively, and profound character.
Traccia di Rosa Bardolino Chiaretto Dop
The wine is made from Corvina (90%) and Rondinella (10%) grapes, which are selectively hand-harvested. Upon arrival at the winery, the grapes are cooled to 6°C/7°C and the following day are destemmed and pressed for about 20 hours. The rosé must ferments in a concrete tank. Federico Giotto of Giotto Consulting fully supports Matilde’s choice of this material. After fermentation, the wine stays in concrete tanks on its fine lees for twelve months without filtration.
They bottle the wine in dark green glass bottles.
Chiaretto Bardolino Traccia di Rosa 2022 – Le Fraghe
Not yet on the market, so you’ll have to take my word for it. It is still aging and will be released next spring. The rose is the aroma that defines this wine. A beautiful rose that blends with fruity notes of peach, which reappear on the palate with remarkable consistency. This is a wine to keep an eye on; grab a few bottles and watch its evolution. It will make us dream…
Chiaretto Bardolino Traccia di Rosa 2021 – Le Fraghe
The older brother of 2022. An explosion of elegance and infinite complexity: it’s pointless to discuss the various aromas when faced with such a wine. Its evolution is full, with a harmonious freshness that supports a complexity and depth on the palate that is truly enviable.
It is still a youngster and has the potential to evolve further. It will be closely monitored. Awarded the “Tre Bicchieri” by the Gambero Rosso Wine Guide (the first time a Bardolino Chiaretto has won this prize).
Chiaretto Bardolino Traccia di Rosa 2020 – Le Fraghe
In the glass, significant evolution appears with notes of bitter orange, candied apricot, and a hint of vegetal elements reminiscent of the Mediterranean scrub. Excellent drinkability.
Chiaretto Bardolino Traccia di Rosa 2019 – Le Fraghe
In 2019, Matilde Poggi embarked on her “Traccia di Rosa” project. Just a few months after the harvest, COVID-19 erupted. That year, as Matilde Poggi puts it, wineries bottled their wine with self-certification and without the verification bodies. It turned out this way, and we like it; we like it very much.” Its color resembles that of a white wine more than a rosé, but it has all the character. It is a mineral wine with a strong personality and great longevity.
Final Reflections
At the end of this tasting, I found myself questioning the reason behind the lack of respect for rosé wines. I can’t provide a single answer, but I believe much of it can be attributed to the limited understanding of this “rosé” product, which is often perceived as a “grab-and-go” item—easy, light, and immediate.
These wines have little to do with this stereotype: they are profound, full of character, and evoke the air, sky, and breeze of the Veronese Lake Garda region. This connection is present in every wine, with different nuances but all linked by a common thread: the lightness, liveliness, and vibrant depth.
“Rosé wines are declining worldwide,but the rosé wines of specific regions remain.”
Federico Giotto
And Matilde Poggi knows how to make the territory speak for itself.