Just a few days ago, the fifth edition of Best Wine Stars, the premier food and wine event in Italy, concluded at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio in Milan. This edition was rich with both new features and familiar highlights, showcasing over 250 Italian and international wineries eager to present their top-tier offerings to a diverse audience of industry professionals, media, and enthusiasts. Among the many events that energized the festival, one of the most anticipated was undoubtedly the tasting dedicated to Pinot Bianco, presented by the “Rete d’impresa Pinot Bianco nel Collio”. This group comprises seven prominent and historic names in Friulian wine: Castello di Spessa, Livon, Russiz Superiore, Schiopetto, Toros, Venica & Venica, and Pascolo. These producers are renowned for their vineyards in Ruttars and Dolegna del Collio.
This versatile and captivating grape variety, capable of producing wines of great elegance and complexity, took center stage at Best Wine Stars, reflecting its growing interest and appreciation among wine enthusiasts.
Pinot Bianco boasts an ancient history and undeniable allure within the Italian wine landscape. Cultivated in various regions of the country—from Trentino Alto Adige to Oltrepò Pavese, from Friuli Venezia Giulia to Tuscany—Pinot Bianco stands out for its extraordinary versatility. It adapts well to different climates and soils, yielding unique and surprising expressions.
This adaptability translates into a range of wines, from fresh and mineral sparkling wines to elegant and complex still whites, from sweet and enveloping passitos to fragrant and delicate rosés. Despite these diverse variations, Pinot Bianco maintains a distinctly recognizable identity, characterized by a fine and refined aromatic profile. In Collio, Pinot Bianco accounts for only 4% of the vineyard area, but it has found an ideal habitat there. It has been present in Collio for over 150 years. Though of French origin, it expresses its best qualities in this region. The soil of Collio, known as flysch or ponca, consists of marls and sandstones of Eocene origin, rich in minerals.
6 Wines and 6 Uniquenesses
- Komjanc Alessio – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2022
- Marco Felluga – Russiz Superiore Pinot Bianco – Collio Doc 2022
- Castello di Spessa – Santarosa – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2022
- Venica – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2022
- Livon – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2021
- Toros – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2022
What do these wines have in common?
They are all extraordinarily elegant, each in its own way. The common thread that emerged from this tasting is elegance—defined by balance, subtle acidity, and evolving aromas—which makes each of these wines a unique storyteller of its own territory.
We encountered wines that had undergone 15-20% fermentation in barriques, such as the Russiz Superiore and Castello di Spessa, which then revealed quite different profiles in the glass: the former had a nose characterized by hawthorn and broom, with a slight hint of hay, while the latter featured notes leaning towards vanilla and a subtle, yet distinctive, almond aroma.
The Venica wine stood out with a unique distinguishing note that, in our opinion, was a hint of dandelion. These are exactly the types of tastings we enjoy: comparing a territory made up of producers attentive to sustainability and uniqueness, where each wine speaks of itself, its soil, its wind, and the hand that crafted it.
6 Pinot Bianco of great evolution
- Marco Felluga – Russiz Superiore Pinot Bianco – Collio Doc 2020
- Komjanc Alessio – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2018
- Toros – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2018
- Livon – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2016
- Castello di Spessa – San Serff – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2015 Venica – Pinot Bianco Collio Doc 2013
Here are six more wines, all 100% Pinot Bianco. The same producers, the same expertise. Here, the wine truly speaks for itself. The great ability of Pinot Bianco to evolve and reveal its best qualities over time has really come to the fore.
The acidity in all of these wines was well-balanced and refined. None of the wines were subdued. Instead, they were energetic and lively. The aromas had clearly evolved towards sweeter notes. Occasionally, hints reminiscent of sea salt appeared. This is due to the pronounced minerality characteristic of these regions.
You know what I think? I believe that often describing the emotions a wine evokes can be limiting. At that moment, I imagined tasting the wine with some background music, and I’d like to share that experience with you.
Take one of the Pinot Bianco wines we’ve introduced and relax.