Pinot Grigio is the most well-known Italian white wine in the world. This is quite remarkable, considering that the grape is not native to Italy. Italy produces exactly half of the world’s Pinot Grigio. More specifically, 87% of that production comes from Trentino, Veneto, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
While this may not be groundbreaking, it is important to note that Italy’s production is vast and export-focused, with 96% of its output dedicated to exports. Within this extensive production, you can find both simple wines and those of great prestige. Each of these regions boasts one or more producers offering exceptional wines. However, if we had to pinpoint the most suitable area for Pinot Grigio production, it would undoubtedly be the DOC Valdadige Terradeiforti.
The basis for this conviction primarily comes from Roeno’s zoning work for their Rivoli Pinot Grigio. Tasting various vintages of this wine has also reinforced this belief.
The study of the territory began in 2000 in Rivoli Veronese, a municipality situated between Affi and the company headquarters in Brentino Belluno (Verona). In the small morainic amphitheater of Rivoli, they discovered the ideal geological and climatic conditions for growing Pinot Grigio.
Additionally, the name “Rolando” and the Greek word “enos,” which refers to wine and winemaking, also contribute to this understanding.”After testing various vineyard areas,” explains Giuseppe Fugatti, who, along with oenologists Mirko Maccani and Alessandro Corazzola, conceived the zoning project, “we identified Rivoli Veronese as a true cru, ideally suited for Pinot Grigio production. The synergy between the territory, the grape variety, and prolonged aging has added depth and complexity to a remarkable wine, which over time has garnered authoritative recognition, including the Tre Bicchieri awarded this year by Gambero Rosso.”
On a cold and dreary Veronese day, we had the chance to evaluate Giuseppe Fugatti’s assertions in a tasting glass. This opportunity came through a vertical tasting with a view of the Arena. The Fugatti family led the event, including Cristina Fugatti and her niece Martina Centa, who handles marketing and communication. Oenologist Mirko Maccani also played a key role, introducing the tasting with meticulous detail. Giuseppe Fugatti, unfortunately, could not attend as he was delayed in Brentino Belluno by the season’s first snow.
The Curious Case of Rivoli Pinot Grigio in Vertical Tasting
Some notes on Roeno
Rolando Fugatti and his wife, Giuliana dal Fior, founded and created the winery in Brentino Belluno, a small area in Belluno Veronese.
For over 50 years, Roeno has showcased a deep passion and dedication to the land spanning the provinces of Verona and the autonomous province of Trento. The story starts with a simple acronym. It combines “ro,” inspired by the founder Rolando’s name, and the Greek word “enos,” which means wine and winemaking.
The story continues thanks to the efforts of their children: Roberta, Cristina, and Giuseppe. They have skillfully integrated wine tourism with vineyard cultivation and winemaking. Roeno includes a winery, a farmhouse, and an inn. Each location offers a warm welcome and the chance to enjoy traditional Trentino-Veronese dishes, paired with an exquisite wine list.
Roeno today
Today, Cantina Roeno benefits from an excellent and carefully selected team:
- Giuseppe Fugatti, Production Director
- Alessandro Corazzola and Mirko Maccani, the winery’s oenologists
- Roberta Fugatti, in charge of hospitality
- Matilde Peres, responsible for guest services
- Nonna Giuliana, the cook at the Inn
- Cristina Fugatti, Commercial Manager
- Luca D’Arcano, Sales Manager
- Martina Centa, Marketing and Communications Manager.
On the vinification of Rivoli Pinot Grigio
After a careful manual harvest, the Pinot Grigio grapes are first destemmed and then placed on an optical sorter. This tool, equipped with optical sensors, enables the selection of only the highest quality berries. After delicate destemming and pressing, the wine undergoes alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel tanks. It ferments until it reaches 7-8% alcohol by volume. The aging process is then completed in tonneau barrels. It then undergoes aging for ten months in French oak tonneau barrels and at least 12 months in the bottle.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2020 Roeno with screw cap
What a beautiful wine with such finesse. On the nose, there are intense notes of field flowers and ripe white-fleshed fruit, with a delicate citrus hint. On the palate, the balance between saltiness and freshness is perfect, leading to a smooth and vibrant finish.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2020 Roeno with Nomacorc closure
This is the same 2020 vintage as the one with the screw cap, but with a different closure. It is undeniable that the aromas and overall elegance are less pronounced, though it remains an excellent wine.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2017 Roeno
Here, the aromas of field flowers have evolved into dried notes. On the palate, the wine is taut and vibrant, with a promising future ahead.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2016 Roeno
The fruit has become more mature, almost candied, with a delicate hint of coffee. The taste is sharp yet consistent with the aromas, and the finish is remarkable. This is a wine in great shape.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio Rivoli 2015 Roeno
Here it is, the wine that those of us who prefer white wines always wish to drink. Eight years spent bestowing brilliance and radiance. The aromas have grown in complexity; the fruit has turned candied, and there is a delicate spiciness. The taste remains energetic and profound. This is a wine that has yet to fully reveal itself, making it very intriguing.
Valdadige Terradeiforti Pinot Grigio 2004 Roeno
To honor the last Pinot Grigio produced by Rolando Fugatti, the vertical tasting concludes with the 2004 vintage. A wine of great historical and symbolic value, but now at the end of its journey, although its noble traits persist, particularly in terms of its salinity.