On a gloomy January day in Verona, the sight of a sign resembling the arched entrance of Vicolo Corticella San Marco, with “Ristorante 12 Apostoli” above, is truly heartwarming.
Since 1921, when the Gioco family began their restaurant business—first with a tavern and later with a full-fledged restaurant—this place has been a welcoming haven for many. Over the years, it has hosted a diverse array of patrons, including local and international figures, writers, artists, literary figures, and politicians. These guests, who came to receive the prestigious “12 Apostoli” literary award, also enjoyed the restaurant’s culinary offerings.
The walls of this historic establishment are adorned with a collection of pens bearing the names of renowned personalities: Giovanni Guareschi, Mario Soldati, Maria Callas, Umberto Eco, Giovanni Spadolini, and Dario Fo, preserving their memory.
Giancarlo Perbellini and his new adventure
A few months ago, the renowned chef Giancarlo Perbellini took over 12 Apostoli, effectively transferring his entire team from “Casa Perbellini.”
Architect and designer Patricia Urquiola skillfully redesigned the space, honoring the venue’s history and significance while keeping it respectful. Perbellini’s return to 12 Apostoli signifies coming home. It was here that the then eighteen-year-old Veronese chef began his distinguished career.
This sort of homecoming for Perbellini at 12 Apostoli has prompted Cantine di Verona to introduce their wine line for the Horeca, “Brolo dei Giusti.”
This line includes:
- Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG
- Valpolicella Superiore DOC
- Custoza Superiore DOC
- Passito Garda DOC.
These wines are produced only in the best vintages. Brolo dei Giusti debuted with two wines, each hand-numbered:
- Amarone 2011, produced in 8000 bottles
- Valpolicella 2013 produced in 12000 bottles
Following these, the 2020 Passito was released at the end of 2022, and the 2020 Custoza Superiore in the spring of 2023. We screen-print the bottles instead of labeling them to preserve the packaging’s integrity over time.
Origin of the name “Brolo”
The name ‘Brolo’ refers to a walled or hedged enclosure where people cultivate vines and flowers. This term originated in Italy with the revival of agricultural activity around monasteries. The term “giusto” pays homage to the farmer who, after a hard day’s work, sits on a stone to contemplate his labor, surrounded by the beauty of the vines and nature around the Brolo.
The tasting of the Brolo dei Giusti line took place in the wine vault of 12 Apostoli. While sampling these wines, we also admired a Petrus 1990 and a Chateau Latour 1989. This event reaffirmed the quality of the new approach to enhancing Valpolicella Superiore. This approach emphasizes authenticity over technicality, highlighting the true essence of the territory. It’s important to open a parenthesis here. Valpolicella, thanks to wines like Amarone and Ripasso, has enjoyed immense success, marked by increased volumes and vineyard areas.
Often, the goal was to produce Amarone at all costs. This sometimes compromised quality, negatively impacting the Valpolicella DOC and diminishing its reputation. There were instances of producing Valpolicella Superiore from discarded grapes or using dried grapes to mimic Amarone.
In recent years, evolving tastes and market trends have driven Cantine di Verona to recognize the need for a clear shift in direction. This allowed the territory to reclaim its vocation, often overshadowed by technical approaches. In this context, there is a growing search for more elegant and subtle wines over those that are alcoholic and sugary. Valpolicella Superiore, made from fresh grapes, has successfully established itself as an important and promising wine.
Tasted wines
During the tasting, we observed that the Valpolicella Superiore DOC Brolo dei Giusti 2013, containing a high percentage of dried grapes, did not show significant differences from the Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Brolo dei Giusti 2011. Meanwhile, the Valpolicella Superiore DOC Brolo dei Giusti 2015, made from fresh grapes, offered a profile of notable dynamism and depth.
A special mention goes to the Custoza Superiore DOC Brolo dei Giusti 2020. This wine is made from a blend of cortese, garganega, friulano, Incrocio Manzoni, and chardonnay grapes. These grapes are cultivated in five hectares of land in the Custoza fraction, within the municipality of Sommacampagna. The Custoza Superiore DOC Brolo dei Giusti 2020 continually surprises with its expressiveness in each tasting. It pairs exceptionally well with ‘Il mio wafer… tartare of sea bass, goat cheese, and licorice.’ This dish is celebrated in Giancarlo Perbellini’s cuisine.
A brolo is a place where the most sought-after, well-cared-for, and generous herbs, flowers, and fruit plants are cultivated. Like all precious things, it is protected by a sturdy hedge or wall to keep strangers out. In the brolo, vines hold a place of honor, reflecting both the meticulous agriculture practiced in monasteries and the refined, aristocratic agriculture.