When I delve into a particular wine region, I have an automatic tendency to revisit *Vino al Vino*; more specifically, I focus on the passages where Mario Soldati immerses himself in his journey to find “some genuine wine.” Regarding Lombardy, Soldati extensively and emphatically discusses Valtellina, but as I remember, he breezes through Oltrepò Pavese.
Pinot Noir and the Origins of Montevecchia
However, the anecdote about when Pinot Noir vines were first planted in Oltrepò is particularly intriguing. Initially, the issue seems rather recent.
Initially, the list of Pavesian wines provided by Garoglio in his Nuovo trattato di enologia (1953) does not mention Pinot Noir. However, it is later discovered that in the Montevecchia enclave, a “champagne” is produced using ancient traditional varieties, including Trebbiano and Burgugnin. Soldati delves deeper and reveals that Burgugnin is actually Pinot Noir. Given that Montevecchia is a sort of viticultural fossil, this grape variety must have been present there for a long time.
The Role of Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino and Carlo Gancia
The common belief is that Count Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino brought Pinot Noir from France to plant it in his estate in Rocca de’ Giorgi, Oltrepò, around the mid-19th century. During this period, Carlo Gancia, a close friend of the Count, was establishing Fratelli Gancia. Gancia passed on the Champagne production techniques he had learned in Reims to Vistarino. Consequently, in 1865, Italy’s first Classic Method sparkling wine from Pinot Noir grapes was created.
Oltrepò Pavese Today: Tradition and Challenges
So much for history—what about the present? Oltrepò is a land of great winemaking tradition, with significant numbers: 13,500 hectares under vine, 1,700 wineries, and on the Oltrepò hills, 62% of all Lombard wine is produced. In 1884, Oltrepò Pavese boasted 225 indigenous grape varieties; today there are 12, although the production regulations are quite generous regarding the different types of wine that can be made.
Current Challenges and Market Evolution
Given the scope of these figures, for the sake of communicative simplicity and to address past errors, it was necessary to bring some order by focusing on Pinot Noir, whether sparkling or vinified as a red. Let’s not forget that with over 3,500 hectares, accounting for 27% of the total vine area, Oltrepò Pavese is the third-largest production area for this grape in Europe, after Champagne and Burgundy. It is incredible that this region is not the most well-known for sparkling wine in Italy, especially since everything started here. There are, however, several contributing factors: sharecropping, a system centered on small family-run businesses that sell their grapes or bulk wine to bottlers, distribution aimed at a predominantly local market that imposed unfair prices, favoring quantity over quality.
The Revival of Oltrepò Pavese: “Oltrepò Land of Pinot Noir”
All this, coupled with other difficult situations, has made the winemaking history of Oltrepò quite complicated. In recent years, however, thanks to a renewed unity among producers, well-thought-out investments, and skilled leadership—Carlo Veronese in the direction and Gilda Fugazza as president of the Oltrepò Pavese Consortium—we are witnessing a true revival. A concrete example is the quality of the wines presented by companies during the event “Oltrepò – Land of Pinot Noir, a Territory, a Grape, Two Excellence.”
The “Oltrepò – Land of Pinot Noir” Event
The event, held at the charming Antica Tenuta Pegazzera in Casteggio, reached its third edition this year and recorded record numbers: more than 250 operators, a significant presence of national and international press, 34 participating companies, and 95 labels presented. Not to mention two important masterclasses, dedicated respectively to Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOCG and Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC.
Quality and Discoveries: Wines and Masterclasses
Regarding the Classic Method, the excellence achieved in terms of average quality is undeniable, not to mention the excellent quality-price ratio, which is certainly more interesting compared to other Italian sparkling wine regions. Still talking about average quality, it should also be noted that there is a need for greater stylistic finesse.
Among the most notable tastings were:
- Francesco Quaquarini with his “Classese” Brut Millesimato 2015
- Terre di Bentivoglio with the Pas Dosè 40 months
- Bruno Verdi with the “Vergomberra” Pas Dosè 2019
- Calatroni Vini with the “Riva Rinetti” Pas Dosè 2018
- Cantine Cavallotti with “La Bolla Blanc de Noir” Brut Millesimato 2019
- Lefiole with “Isabèl” Brut 2020.
The Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC is definitely a great discovery. It is highly enjoyable when made for early drinking in steel, but also when aged with a skillful use of wood, whether large cask or barrique.
Among the most convincing tastings:
- Calatroni Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC Fioravanti 2022
- La Genisia Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC Centodieci 2019
- Travaglino Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC Poggio della Buttinera 2019
- Frecciarossa Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese DOC Giorgio Odero 2018, the latter being an excellent example of what Pinot Noir from Oltrepò Pavese can achieve with aging.
Ultimately, the hope is that this region becomes increasingly aware of the greatness of its heritage and acts accordingly. This heritage, it is important to reiterate, is not only oenological but also scenic and gastronomic, encompassing everything that today’s wine tourist seeks. Time is a gentleman, and Oltrepò will reclaim the spotlight where it deserves to be.
Credit Photo
The cover photo is taken from the Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese website.