At a pivotal moment in his numerous ventures, Vincenzo Florio foresaw that leaving the production of Marsala solely to the English would be a missed opportunity. In 1833, he acquired a beachfront plot in Marsala, situated between the Ingham-Whitaker and Woodhouse bagli, marking the first time Marsala spoke Italian—or more precisely, Sicilian, given Italy was not yet a unified nation.
Without delving too deeply into the wine’s history, it’s worth noting that its commercialization began in 1796, initially with John Woodhouse and later with other merchants, arriving from Albion, namely Ingham & Whitaker. By the second half of the 19th century, bolstered by the organizational prowess of the Florio family and their formidable merchant fleet, Marsala became the most served dessert wine on the tables of European bourgeoisie, even finding its way to the United States of America.
Decline and Rebirth
With the acquisition of the Woodhouse brand, Florio became the leading producer of Marsala wine. However, as the 20th century progressed, short-sighted decisions nearly pushed Marsala into oblivion.
In the 1970s, the ill-conceived invention of Marsala all’uovo (Marsala with egg) represented one of the most misguided choices in commercial history, despite the wine’s vast potential, rivaling Port and Madeira. When one hits rock bottom, there are typically two paths: continue digging towards complete demise or rise from the ashes in all possible magnificence.
Fortunately, due to the efforts of a handful of particularly sensitive producers, Marsala has once again become a source of pride for Italian winemaking.
One of the key architects of this revival is Francesco Intorcia and his Heritage winery. Nearly three decades ago, after repeated tastings of aged Marsala vintages in the family cellar, Francesco Intorcia realized he held an invaluable treasure.
In 2010, with his father Antonio’s blessing, he bottled the first Intorcia Reserves of the new era, deeming the 1980 vintage most suitable for the project taking shape in his mind. Thus, the Heritage brand was born, translating the English term “heritage” into the concept of a family and a unique territory like Marsala.
This 1980 vintage included varieties such as Vergine, Dolce, and Semisecco. After these, the Superiore Reserve followed in the same year, then Superiore 1994, Vergine and Superiore 2004, Reserve Superiore 2012, and Superiore Rubino 2014.
Vignemie
The Heritage production also encompasses other significant and captivating wines, such as the gem Vignemie, made from pure Grillo grapes. I had the privilege of tasting it vertically across seven vintages: 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017. Vignemie impresses with its depth and savoriness, showing excellent complexity as it ages. Then there’s the Vigna di Maestranza 2019, also from Grillo grapes, which undergoes aging in small Slavonian oak barrels. Elegant and expressive, it undoubtedly ranks among Italy’s great white wines.
Noteworthy are also the Pre British Metodo Perpetuo Tradizionale White Wine and the Marsala Underwater. Through a partnership with Jamin Portofino, a precious and limited collection was released in 2023. It was composed by featuring Marsala Vergine Reserve 1980, Marsala Superiore Oro 2014, and Pre British Heritage, all refined underwater.
Compared to those aged in cellars, Marsala Underwater wines exhibit heightened aromatic intensity, possessing a finesse and roundness on the palate that is truly unique.
Francesco Intorcia not only deserves credit for contributing to the resurgence of Marsala but was the first winemaker to envision broader horizons for this nectar, particularly in pairings—a stroke of genius.
Collaborating with Chef Peppe Agliano, they found astonishing harmony in pairings with finger foods. Some great examples are Pane Nero di Castelvetrano with buffalo butter and herring, or raw tuna bombettes with goat cheese and caramelized onion, to name a few.
Meanwhile, with gourmet ice cream wizard Stefano Guizzetti (Ciocco Lab), they explored pairings with savory gelato.
Initially unconventional, these combinations elevate enjoyment to extraordinary levels. Marsala paired with butter and anchovy ice cream, Tuminia bread, or sorbet with burnt pepper, savory tortellini, bagna cauda, and robiola foam, wow!
And that’s not all—there’s Mixology.
Mixology
Enter Bar Manager Roberto Tranchida, who, amidst creations like Negroni Heritage (Marsala Ambra Semisecco, bitter orange liqueur, bitter, and London dry gin), and Scent of Sicily (Marsala Superiore Oro, London Dry Gin, pink grapefruit juice, lemon juice, and raspberry syrup), places Marsala into a new dimension, reinventing cocktails with a touch of Sicilian flair.
In conclusion, Francesco Intorcia and his dream team are playing a pivotal role in Marsala’s revival. They are liberating it from the mundane confines of a meditation wine and reintroducing it as a wine of great class, an ideal companion for unconventional and innovative pairings.
Ensuring a solid future for this illustrious wine will be the reborn Consortium for its protection, along with the renaissance of the Marsala DOC, now including the additional geographical unit “Sicilia” in its production regulations, further enhancing the prestige of the “Marsala” label worldwide.