“Once upon a time, they called it the hill as we would say the sea or the woods. I would return there in the evening, from the darkening city, and for me it wasn’t just another place, but an aspect of things, a way of life.”
Cesare Pavese
In these words of love by Cesare Pavese, born just a handful of kilometers from Costigliole d’Asti lies the essence of life in the hills of Monferrato.
These hills form a cultural landscape of extreme beauty, forever intertwined with viticulture, as evidenced by the endless expanse of vineyards interrupted only by village homes. UNESCO recognized these landscapes, along with Langhe and Roero, as World Heritage Sites in 2014.
Unlike the internationally celebrated wines of Langhe, the Monferrato’s strength lies in its potential for discovery. It remains an area ripe for exploration, with a myriad of identities, unified by the Consortium as the cohesive element amid this complexity.
The appellations in Monferrato
In Monferrato there are 13 protected designations, including 4 DOCGs.
The 4 DOCGs:
- Barbera d’Asti
- Nizza
- Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato
- Terre Alfieri
The 9 DOCs:
- Albugnano
- Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato
- Dolcetto d’Asti
- Freisa d’Asti
- Grignolino d’Asti
- Loazzolo
- Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco
- Monferrato
- Piemonte.
The Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato
The Consorzio Barbera d’Asti e Vini del Monferrato, established in 1946, has been promoting and safeguarding the viticultural excellence of Monferrato for over 70 years.
Its mission is to represent the diverse souls that coexist here in a unified manner, starting with the viticulturists—the heart of the region’s winemaking activity. By providing a centralized point of reference, the Consortium emphasizes the unique characteristics that make this area globally distinctive.
This daily commitment aligns with the broader goal of continuing the work of past communities in harmonizing viticulture with the landscape, preserving a tradition of increasing quality.
The Soils of Monferrato
The soils of Monferrato contribute to the development of the characteristics and qualitative value of these grapes. They date back over 2 million years ago, when the sea began to retreat from the current Po Valley. This initiated a landscape shaping process that has characterized the evolving and current formation of the hills.
These terrains, generally low in organic substances and often arid in summer, can be distinguished into two main types:
- “terre bianche” (white lands): older in origin, are prevalent in the areas of Canelli, southern Asti, Alessandria, and Casalese. The wines produced here are full-bodied, rich in color, capable of long-term aging, and suitable for extended maturation.
- “sabbie astiane” (Astian sands). Predominantly, they are in the central Asti Monferrato on both sides of the Tanaro river. They are located on steeper hillsides. They produce wines characterized by lower acidity, faster maturation, and a propensity for more immediate consumption.
Barbera d’Asti DOCG
It’s the wine of ancient peasant tradition that has managed to renew and redeem itself over time, thanks to winemakers like Giacomo Bologna. The designated production area includes 116 municipalities in the province of Asti and 51 municipalities in the province of Alessandria. Made from at least 90% Barbera grapes—primarily cultivated in the provinces of Asti and Alessandria and reaching its peak expression in Barbera d’Asti—it achieved DOC status in 1970 and DOCG in 2008, marking a path of growth (aided by advancements in viticulture and winemaking) that now positions it as one of Italy’s most important wines, increasingly acclaimed internationally.
Barbera DOCG typically grows on the best-exposed hills of Asti and Monferrato, and producers typically harvest it in the second half of September. Alongside stainless steel vinification, which produces fresher and more immediate wines, the use of barriques and large barrels has developed, aimed at creating the Superior type—more complex and suitable for extended aging. Despite its approachability and easy-drinking nature, Barbera d’Asti is a wine that can wait for the ideal moment to be enjoyed over the years.
When it comes to its sensory characteristics, this wine displays a ruby red color, particularly intense in the Superior type, which tends towards garnet with aging. The aroma is intense and vinous when young, persistently evolving: initial notes of cherry, plum, and dark berries transition into hints of jam and dried fruits, followed by varying degrees of balsamic, spicy, and occasionally floral notes. Aging in wood enriches the bouquet with spicy undertones that complement the inherent freshness of Barbera. On the palate, it is full-bodied, offering great warmth and harmony. Maturation enhances its complexity, yielding rich, velvety tannins and a long-lasting taste and olfactory persistence.
Nizza DOCG
How exciting is Nizza DOCG wine. If Barbera d’Asti DOCG is perhaps the most representative denomination of the Monferrato area, alongside it, Nizza DOCG epitomizes its highest excellence. Produced exclusively from Barbera grapes, Nizza DOCG thrives in the heart of Monferrato, within a production area spanning 18 municipalities long renowned for cultivating these grapes and selected as zones of utmost quality. The recognition of the Nizza DOCG denomination resulted from a journey marked by several milestones, aiming to valorize one of the region’s qualitative pinnacles. Initially, it was a subzone of Barbera d’Asti, it attained DOCG status in 2013, and established the official Denomination in 2014, introducing the Riserva version.
It ages for 18 months, including at least 6 in wooden barrels. After that, Nizza DOCG develops an intense aroma dominated by cherry, plum, and dark berries. This evolves into hints of jam and dried fruit, accompanied by more or less pronounced balsamic, spicy, and sometimes floral notes. Aging in wood develops hints of cinnamon, cocoa, and licorice. On the palate, it is full-bodied, warm and harmonious. Aging bestows complexity and richness with soft, velvety tannins and a long-lasting taste and olfactory persistence.
Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG
We move from the extensive production areas of Piemonte DOC to the few municipalities where producers can cultivate Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG, once again confirming the Consortium’s primary goal of showcasing the diverse and varied aspects of the territory in a unified manner.
Ruchè, a rare grape variety cultivated in the province of Asti, specifically in the Castagnole Monferrato area and a handful of other communes, stands as one of the most unique native vines in Asti Monferrato. Thriving in limestone-rich, sun-drenched soils, it has garnered consistent acclaim since obtaining DOC status in 1987, evolving into a hallmark of regional identity and diversity. Don Giacomo Cauda, a clergyman who revitalized neglected vineyards in the 1960s, is credited with reviving it. In this way he propelled a wine destined for great success. Achieving DOCG status in 2010, today it produces over a million bottles annually.
Crafted from 90 to 100% Ruchè grapes (with a permissible addition of Barbera and/or Brachetto grapes up to 10%), Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato DOCG distinguishes itself with an intense and distinctive aroma, featuring floral and spicy notes often intertwined with hints of wild berries and sour cherry. On the palate, it is dry, harmonious, pleasantly soft, and exhibits good aromatic persistence.
The Monferrato Consortium’s Numbers
- 404 member wineries
- 13 protected designations
- 4 DOCG: Barbera d’Asti, Nizza, Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato, Terre Alfieri
- 9 DOC: Albugnano, Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato, Dolcetto d’Asti, Freisa d’Asti, Grignolino d’Asti, Loazzolo, Malvasia di Castelnuovo Don Bosco, Monferrato, Piemonte
In the vineyard
The total area claimed by all the Controlled Designations of Origin (DO) within the Consortium in 2021 amounts to 10,430 hectares. Breaking down the figures for the main denominations in terms of claimed hectares, we observe:
- 4,142 hectares claimed by Barbera d’Asti DOCG
- 3,827 hectares claimed by Piemonte DOC
In the cellar
As of 2021, the total bottled production recorded across all protected DOs amounts to 492,986.21 hectoliters, equivalent to 65,731,495 bottles. Specifically regarding the main denominations, in terms of hectoliters and bottles recorded, the figures highlight the significant differences in production volume.
- Barbera d’Asti DOCG: 149,689.70 hectoliters and 19,958,627 bottles
- Piemonte DOC: 275,696.83 hectoliters and 36,759,577 bottles