“I am a simple and humble worker in the Lord’s vineyard.” With these words, on April 19, 2005, Pope Benedict XVI introduced himself to the world upon assuming the papal throne.
Regardless of one’s stance on faith, these words, rich with religious symbolism, undeniably communicate the profound importance of wine to the Church.
Monks historically produced wine in vineyards enclosed within monastery walls, abbeys, and convents, making it the supreme emblem of the Eucharist for practical reasons both economic and related to self-sufficiency. We owe a great debt to these monks for their contributions to vine training systems, and winemaking techniques, passed down through centuries and still upheld today in those monasteries which, with great wisdom, have maintained significant agricultural activities of which wine is an integral part.
One of the most notable examples in this regard is the Abbey of Novacella, boasting one of the oldest active wine cellars in the world. Founded in 1142 by the Bishop of Brixen, Blessed Hartmann, the monastery has remained under the guidance of Augustinian Canons Regular who oversee 22 parishes today, responsible for maintaining and developing all of the Abbey’s activities.
The ministers of the Brixen Chapter, Reginbert of Saben and his consort Cristina, established the monastery of Novacella in 1142 by donating their possessions, including several vineyards, to the bishop. Through subsequent donations, bequests, purchases, and exchanges, the Abbey gradually acquired a substantial vineyard estate, to the extent that by 1177 Pope Alexander III recognized the monastery’s ownership of vineyard lands adjacent to the monastic complex.
Abbey of Novacella: The vineyards
The vineyards stretch from 600 meters asl at the monastery to 900 meters asl. Grapes harvested from these lands have always been processed in the Abbey’s cellar. This cultivation area, the northernmost south of the Alps, is a favored terroir for white grape varieties such as Sylvaner, Müller-Thurgau, Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, and Gewürztraminer.
The red wines of the Abbey of Novacella, on the other hand, mature in Bolzano and Cornaiano. As early as the beginning of the 17th century, Provost Markus Hauser purchased vineyards in the Bolzano Basin, which remain owned by the Abbey of Novacella to this day. His decision to acquire these vineyards proved remarkably foresighted, much like the acquisition of the Marklhof estate in Cornaiano at the beginning of the 20th century.
Today, these excellent terroirs cultivate varieties such as Edelvernatsch (Schiava Gentile), Pinot Nero, Lagrein, and the sweet Moscato Rosa. Visitors to the Abbey’s Tasting Room can sample the wines produced here, often paired with a typical Tyrolean snack.
Meanwhile, the Abbey’s wine shop offers not only wines but also various house products such as grappas, fruit juices, herbal teas, cosmetics, and numerous other items primarily sourced from monasteries and abbeys across Europe.
Abbey of Novacella: Product lines
The Abbey of Novacella presents three product lines: the classic line from the Abbey’s winery offers wines known for their excellent quality-to-price ratio, exported to over 40 countries worldwide.
The Praepositus line features wines made from the best vineyards and destined for long cellar aging.
Finally, the Insolitus line, launched in 2020, serves as a laboratory where winemaker Celestino Lucin, with the expertise of a refined craftsman, often creates seductive wines that push the boundaries.
Werner Waldboth and Celestino Lucin
A few weeks ago, towards the end of March, in Varna at Novacella, Werner Waldboth and Celestino Lucin, respectively Sales Director and Winemaker at the Abbey of Novacella, presented two new precious gems that enrich the Praepositus line: the Alto Adige-Südtirol Valle Isarco DOC Sylvaner Stiftsgarten 2019 and the Alto Adige-Südtirol DOC Pinot Nero Riserva Vigna Oberhof 2019.
The third gem, the Riesling Kabi from the Insolitus line, was to be unveiled at the 55th edition of Vinitaly, but unfortunately, I did not have the chance to taste it.
Tasting notes: Abbey of Novacella…
Alto Adige-Südtirol Valle Isarco DOC Sylvaner Stiftsgarten 2019
Alto Adige-Südtirol Valle Isarco DOC Sylvaner Stiftsgarten 2019 originates from the Abbey’s Abbey Garden, “Stiftsgarten”, in Novacella, where Sylvaner grapes from a vineyard over 50 years old thrive on soil rich in glacial sediments. Positioned just above 600 meters in altitude, with an ideal exposure and naturally low yields, it produces a wine of incredible elegance and finesse. Fermentation and maturation occur 70% in barrique and 30% in stainless steel, followed by a refinement of two years before bottling, with an additional 18 months aging before release, totaling 1000 bottles. Tasting this wine could confidently confirm that some of Italy’s finest white wines hail from Alto Adige. It boasts an extraordinarily delicate intensity on the nose, with notes of wildflowers, white fruits, and citrus. On the palate, it is expansive, fresh, and deep, promising further magnificence with age.
Alto Adige-Südtirol DOC Pinot Nero Riserva Vigna Oberhof 2019
Alto Adige-Südtirol DOC Pinot Nero Riserva Vigna Oberhof 2019 is born on the Marklhof estate in Cornaiano, where Pinot Nero thrives on gravelly-morainic deposits between 445 and 455 meters above sea level. After alcoholic fermentation in stainless steel and malolactic fermentation in barrique, the wine matures in small barrels for two years. After a further 18 months of bottle aging, it is released, totaling 1500 bottles. A Pinot Nero of exceptional pedigree, it offers aromas of sour cherry, underbrush, and spices on the nose. On the palate, it is velvety and alluring.