Nero d’Avola is considered the most important red grape variety in Sicily, with over 48 million certified bottles produced in 2021. Gaining a deeper understanding of this grape is essential for wine professionals, particularly to position it in the current market, both in terms of production and consumer preferences.
A Bit of History
The Greeks likely introduced Nero d’Avola to Sicily and also brought the bush vine training method. Nero d’Avola is also known as “Calabrese.” This name, used since the 1600s, likely originates from the terms Calavrisi or Calaulisi, which referred to wines from Southern Italy characterized by quality, production method, color, and sugar content. Additionally, in ancient Sicilian, “Calea” referred to grapes, and “Aulisi” referred to Avola, a village in Syracuse, thus forming the term “Caulisi.” The origins of grape varieties are often fascinating and steeped in legend.
From its initial cultivation in southeastern Sicily, Nero d’Avola gradually spread throughout the island. Today, it is extensively present in all nine Sicilian provinces and is the most representative cultivar in Agrigento, Caltanissetta, Syracuse, Ragusa, and Enna. It ranks second in Palermo, Catania, and Messina, and third in Trapani.
Variety Description
Nero d’Avola exhibits significant intravarietal variability due to its ancient origins and its cultivation over a vast area. Researchers have defined four biotypes, each characterized by morphological aspects, particularly the shape and size of the bunch, as well as agronomic and oenological features. These biotypes include A, originating from the central-southern area of Sicily; B, widely distributed across the island with a focus on western Sicily; B1, found in the southeastern viticultural area of Sicily; and B2, closely resembling B1
– Biotype A produces rich and complex wines, ideal for aging
– Biotype B is better for producing lighter, easy-to-drink wines with a fresher aromatic profile and a lighter body, best consumed after short aging periods.
– Biotypes B1 and B2 are suitable for medium to long aging, including in wood.
Given this wealth of biotypes, it is evident that within Sicily, there are diverse expressions of Nero d’Avola, influenced by factors such as soil type and altitude.
With this analysis, one might wonder if there is a specific area more suited for producing Nero d’Avola. The answer lies in the Syracuse area, encompassing Avola, Noto, Eloro, and Pachino.
Contemporary Nero d’Avola
Discussing the modernity or contemporaneity of a wine can be daunting. As the brilliant Genoese singer-songwriter Ivano Fossati wrote: “Contemporary, what an opportune word, what an apparent movement of the most contrasting ideas. If you want to reach the main altar these days, nothing and no one can stop you.” It becomes easier when considering drinkability and versatility. In this sense, tasting Nero d’Avola in its various nuances during the three-day event organized by the Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia, titled “Discovery Nero d’Avola,” painted a clear picture of a wine that keeps up with the times, catering to consumer needs and being versatile in pairing.
Nero d’Avola pairs well not only with meat but also with traditional Sicilian fish dishes, provided you serve it at an appropriate temperature, slightly below the usual 18 degrees Celsius. Additionally, there is a new dimension of sparkling Nero d’Avola, primarily produced using the Martinotti method, but there are also some Metodo Classico references.
Discovery Nero d’Avola – The Masterclasses
During the three-day “Discovery Nero d’Avola” event organized by the Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia, the Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia organized two interesting masterclasses. The first, “The Different Expressions of Nero d’Avola by Soil,” was led by renowned Sicilian wine expert and journalist/sommelier Luigi Salvo and agronomist Filippo Buttafuoco. The second, “The Different Expressions of Nero d’Avola by Altitude,” was also conducted by Luigi Salvo. Each masterclass featured a blind tasting of six wines. Was the final goal achieved? Partially, as factors beyond soil and altitude, such as winery production styles, significantly influence the differences.
However, some clear data emerged:
– Nero d’Avola cultivation primarily occurs between 30 and 500 meters above sea level, but there are vineyards almost at sea level and others reaching up to 900 meters.
– Agrigento has the highest number of hectares planted with Nero d’Avola, totaling 5,105.
– The highest vineyard is in Palermo province.
– Sicily’s vineyard area is 97,080 hectares, with 65% on hills, 30% on plains, and 5% on mountains. Sicily is the leading Italian region for hillside vineyard area.
Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia
The Consorzio di Tutela Vini DOC Sicilia (https://siciliadoc.wine) established itself in 2012 with the aim of representing Sicilian wine and promoting the DOC Sicilia denomination. The consortium focuses on increasing the visibility of a brand symbolic of Made in Italy and ensuring consumer and producer protection. Over 7,000 winegrowers and nearly 500 bottlers support the Denomination of Controlled Origin, which helps represent and safeguard the island’s wine production.
The impressive bottle production totaled over 90 million bottles in 2020 and exceeded 95 million in 2021. The Sicilia DOC system excels sustainably, with many of its 23,000 hectares cultivated according to the viticulture standards of “Fondazione Sostain Sicilia